SUBSTACK: Plastic by Dr. Lara Devgan | The Science Behind Skincare

The Science Behind Skincare

Demystifying Active Ingredients, Layering Logic & Dermatologic Innovation

Scientific Beauty

The Science Behind Skincare

In a world where #SkinTok trends change faster than you can say “hyaluronic acid,” and beauty aisles are bursting with serums, oils, and peels promising miraculous transformations, the pursuit of radiant, healthy skin can feel like navigating a biochemical jungle.

But behind the glossy packaging and influencer endorsements lies a rich scientific landscape—a fusion of dermatology, pharmacology, and biotechnology—guiding what actually works for your skin.

In this piece, we dive deep into the science behind skincare, uncovering what active ingredients really do, how to layer products for maximum effect, and why some formulas—like those from Dr. Lara Devgan Scientific Beauty—stand out as evidence-based, plastic surgeon-formulated solutions.

Scientific Beauty | Vitamin C+B+E Ferulic Serum

What Are Active Ingredients? (And Why Should You Care?)

Active ingredients are the powerhouses of any skincare product. These are the components that directly target specific concerns—whether it’s fine lines, hyperpigmentation, acne, or dullness. Think of them as the “medicines” of your routine.

Some of the most studied and effective active ingredients include:

• Retinoids (Retinol, Retinaldehyde, Tretinoin) – Vitamin A derivatives that increase cell turnover, improve texture, reduce fine lines, and treat acne.

• Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) – A potent antioxidant that brightens skin, boosts collagen synthesis, and protects against UV damage.

• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) – Known for reducing inflammation, regulating oil, and improving barrier function.

• Peptides – Short chains of amino acids that signal the skin to produce more collagen and elastin.

• Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) – Chemical exfoliants like glycolic and lactic acid that dissolve dead skin cells and smooth texture.

• Hyaluronic Acid – A humectant that holds 1,000 times its weight in water, hydrating and plumping the skin.

• Growth Factors – Proteins that stimulate skin regeneration and repair.

👉 Science-backed pick:
Dr. Devgan’s Platinum Long Lash serum features a sophisticated blend of peptides and vitamins to promote fuller, longer lashes—without the prostaglandins that can cause pigmentary side effects in traditional lash serums like Latisse.

Scientific Beauty | Intensive Pigment Corrector

The Logic of Layering: Order Matters

One of the most misunderstood elements in skincare is product layering. Applying the right products in the wrong order can render them ineffective—or worse, irritate the skin.

Here’s a general rule of thumb:

1. Cleanser – Start with a clean slate. Remove makeup, SPF, and debris.

2. Active Serums – This is where your Vitamin C, retinol, or exfoliants go. Apply the thinnest-to-thickest.

3. Moisturizer – Seals in hydration and buffers actives when needed.

4. Oil (optional) – Helps lock in everything beneath it.

5. Sunscreen (AM only) – Your most important anti-aging product.

📌 Physician-formulated tip:
Dr. Devgan’s Vitamin C+B+E Ferulic Serum is best applied on dry, clean skin in the morning. It features 20% L-ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, and niacinamide in a stabilized formula—giving your skin both antioxidant defense and brightening in one elegant step.

Scientific Beauty | Hyperpigmentation Collection

Understanding Retinoids Without Fear

Retinoids are perhaps the most lauded anti-aging ingredient, but they come with a reputation: peeling, redness, and “retinoid uglies.” What’s really happening?

When applied topically, retinoids:

• Accelerate epidermal turnover

• Stimulate collagen production in the dermis

• Improve pigmentation irregularities

• Help unclog pores

This process often triggers initial irritation (called “retinization”) as your skin acclimates. But choosing the right strength and frequency is key.

🌙 Skin-friendly option:
Dr. Devgan’s Retinal + Bakuchiol Serum combines retinaldehyde, encapsulated retinol, and bakuchiol (a plant-based retinol alternative) for results with reduced irritation. It also contains niacinamide to calm the skin and minimize redness.

Scientific Beauty | SPF 44 BB Cream

Barrier Function: Your Skin’s Defense System

The skin barrier is your body’s first line of defense. It keeps water in and pathogens out. Harsh exfoliation, overuse of actives, or skipping moisturizer can compromise it—leading to dryness, sensitivity, and breakouts.

Your barrier loves:

• Ceramides – Lipids that form the skin’s natural “mortar”

• Fatty acids – Help strengthen cell membranes

• Cholesterol – Balances barrier lipid layers

• Humectants and occlusives – Hydrate and lock in moisture

💧 Barrier-loving product:
Dr. Devgan’s Hyaluronic Serum is a deeply hydrating formula with mixed and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid and vitamin B5. It’s ideal for post-procedure skin or anyone on a retinol regimen.

Scientific Beauty | Hyperpigmentation Products: Before & After

The Role of pH and Formulation Science

A well-formulated skincare product is more than just a list of ingredients. The pH determines whether an acid exfoliant actually exfoliates. The delivery system decides whether retinol penetrates deeply or sits on the surface.

Let’s compare two hypothetical Vitamin C serums:

• One has 15% L-ascorbic acid at pH 7—rendered ineffective.

• The other has 15% L-ascorbic acid at pH 3.5—biologically active and skin-compatible.

⚗️ Stability and bioavailability are everything.

That’s why Dr. Devgan’s products are often praised in dermatologic circles: they’re built on clinical trials, pH-controlled delivery systems, and peer-reviewed literature—not trend-driven marketing.

Scientific Beauty | Platinum Long Lash

Cutting-Edge Trends in Dermatologic Science

Today’s skincare world is shaped by rapid advances in technology. Some exciting developments include:

• Exosome Therapy – Using cell-derived vesicles to trigger skin healing and collagen production.

• DNA Repair Enzymes – Target oxidative damage at the genetic level.

• Stem Cell Conditioned Media – Touted to improve texture and firmness.

• Topical Neurotoxins (still experimental) – A future where your cream might work like Botox? Researchers are exploring it.

While these trends sound promising, many are still under investigation. Always look for published studies and clinical evidence before investing.

🧪 Tried-and-true meets tech-forward:
Dr. Devgan’s Polypeptide Eye Cream blends medical-grade peptides, niacinamide, and growth factors to visibly firm the under-eye area while reducing puffiness and dark circles.

Scientific Beauty

The Final Word: Personalization is Power

Every face is different. What works for one person’s pigmentation may not help another’s hormonal acne. The real “secret” to great skin is consistency, science, and personalization.

Some guiding principles:

• Use evidence-based actives, not gimmicks.

• Layer with intention—thin to thick, low pH to neutral.

• Support your barrier like it’s sacred.

• Adjust your regimen seasonally and with age.

• Don’t underestimate sunscreen—it is your anti-aging MVP.

And finally, work with a board-certified plastic surgeon, dermatologist, or a trusted professional. While medical-grade solutions like Dr. Lara Devgan Scientific Beauty can deliver powerful results, expert guidance will make your routine safer, smarter, and more effective.

Scientific Beauty

In Summary:

Skincare doesn’t have to be a mystery wrapped in a marketing campaign. With a little scientific literacy and a critical eye, you can decode ingredients, layer like a pro, and invest in products that deliver real transformation.

Your skin is your largest organ. Treat it like the scientific masterpiece it is.

SHOP DR. LARA DEVGAN SKINCARE at DrLaraDevgan.com or any of our authorized retailers: Nordstrom, Saks, Revolve, Violet Grey, Net a Porter, Moda Operandi, Casa Cipriani, The Surrenne, Equinox, Shopbop, The Maybourne Hotel Group, and more.

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The American Society of Plastic Surgeons: Novel Uses for Botox and Filler

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Novel Uses for Botox and Filler

By now, we all know that Botox helps improve the look of fine lines and wrinkles, and filler can plump our pout and restore volume to the face. What's left to talk about? As it turns out, plenty!

There are FDA-approved and tried-and-true uses for Botox and filler products, but innovations are pushing the envelope of what these products can do, and not all applications are aesthetic. These injectables, Botox in particular, are being used to treat pain, excessive sweating and other conditions that can leave people feeling insecure or on the sidelines of life.

While indeed "novel," perhaps a better word would be "innovative" or "cutting edge." Contemporary uses for these products are not a flash-in-the-pan fad. They are quickly gaining popularity and becoming mainstream.

What’s New and Novel for Botox

The word "Botox" has become almost synonymous with wrinkle reduction. Beyond being on wrinkle patrol, Botox seems to be expanding its aesthetic empire by branching out into other aesthetic avenues.

"One popular off-label use is the brow lift, where Botox is strategically injected into the lateral brow depressors to create a subtle lift, opening the eyes and creating a more youthful, refreshed look," said Lara Devgan, MD. "Similarly, the 'Nefertiti neck lift' involves injections along the jawline and platysmal bands (neck) to refine the jaw contour, providing a lifted and more elegant appearance. Another sought-after treatment is trapezius slimming, where Botox is injected into the trapezius muscles (at the top of the back) to reduce bulk, elongate the neck and even relieve tension caused by stress or poor posture."

The paralytic effects of Botox can treat hyperhidrosis, or excessive sweating. The drug blocks nerve signals that tell sweat glands to activate, stopping sweat at the source. Even more novel is that Botox for sweat is not just for the underarms.

"By injecting Botox into the underarms, palms, soles of the feet or even the scalp, sweat production can be significantly reduced, improving comfort and confidence," said Dr. Devgan.

Another non-cosmetic use for Botox is called "masseter Botox."

"Masseter Botox is another powerful treatment that serves both cosmetic and medical purposes," said Dr. Devgan. "By reducing the size of the masseter muscles, Botox creates a slimmer, more V-shaped facial contour while also alleviating jaw clenching, teeth grinding (bruxism) and TMJ (temporomandibular joint) dysfunction. Many patients experience relief from chronic headaches and jaw pain, making this treatment both an aesthetic and quality-of-life enhancement."

Filler Rounds Out Its Aesthetic Role

The use of filler is also having an innovative moment. While the power of the plump hasn't diminished, there are novel ways that a skilled plastic surgeon can use filler to treat a new variety of aesthetic concerns.

"Fillers have evolved far beyond their traditional use for wrinkle reduction, now playing a crucial role in facial micro-optimization – the subtle enhancement of facial proportions to create a more harmonious and balanced appearance," said Dr. Devgan. "Unlike traditional volumizing techniques, micro-optimization focuses on refining small details, such as enhancing cheekbone projection, defining the jawline or correcting minor asymmetries. This approach allows injectors to sculpt a more naturally attractive facial structure without an 'overfilled' look. Another cutting-edge application is nonsurgical rhinoplasty, where hyaluronic acid fillers are used to straighten dorsal humps, refine the nasal tip or improve bridge height, offering an alternative to traditional surgery with minimal downtime."

The list of applications for filler is growing, according to Dr. Devgan.

Is New and Novel Good?

What's new is always exciting. However, it is always in the patient's best interest to do their research and talk to their plastic surgeon about innovations in the industry and what type of result they can expect. Some uses and procedures remain off-label, and patients need to understand what that means.

Trends also come and go, sometimes for a good reason. You may like the look specific novel treatment options can provide, but again, it pays to talk to your plastic surgeon about the reality of maintaining those results.

Consider whether you are looking for a sustainable treatment option or are chasing a trend. Talking to a board-certified plastic surgeon who is an ASPS member can help uncover whether a novel Botox or filler treatment is worth the hype and the cost.

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Signature Procedure | The Era of the Undetectable Facelift

Dr. Lara Devgan demonstrates her ability to perform undetectable facelifts in this TikTok.

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The Era of the Undetectable Facelift: Dr. Lara Devgan’s Signature Approach

In a world where overdone cosmetic procedures are often visible from across the room, Dr. Lara Devgan has built a reputation for mastering the opposite: the art of subtle transformation. Known for her high-profile clientele and meticulous techniques, Dr. Devgan specializes in what many call the “undetectable facelift”—a procedure so refined that the results look completely natural, yet remarkably effective.

Precision Over Perfection

Dr. Devgan’s philosophy is rooted in a deep understanding of facial anatomy and aesthetics. Rather than pulling skin taut or drastically altering a patient's appearance, she focuses on restoring youthful proportions and structure. Her facelifts often involve tightening the deeper layers of the face (known as the SMAS layer), rather than just the skin. This approach not only results in a more natural look but also offers longer-lasting outcomes.

Minimal Scars, Maximum Subtlety

One of the hallmarks of her work is that you can’t tell it’s been done. Incisions are hidden in natural creases—around the ears, along the hairline—and are meticulously closed to minimize scarring. Her patients often return to their lives looking “refreshed” or “well-rested,” rather than “done.” Friends may wonder if they’ve been on vacation or had a great night’s sleep—never suspecting surgery.

A Surgeon Who Thinks Like an Artist

Dr. Devgan’s background combines rigorous scientific training with an artistic eye. As a Yale-educated, Johns Hopkins–trained plastic surgeon, she’s been recognized not only for her technical skill but also for her ability to preserve the unique character of each face. The result is a kind of surgical invisibility—facial rejuvenation that looks entirely organic, never overcorrected.

The Quiet Power of Natural Beauty

What sets Dr. Devgan apart is her commitment to discretion, subtlety, and elegance. Her work doesn’t scream “plastic surgery”—it whispers confidence. In an industry where over-enhancement can easily take center stage, Dr. Devgan proves that the best facelifts are the ones you’ll never notice.

Whether you're seeking to turn back the clock or simply want to look like the best version of yourself, Dr. Devgan’s undetectable facelift offers a compelling option—proof that less really can be more, in the right hands.

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Appointment Inquiries

For inquiries and appointments, please email appointments at appointments@laradevganmd.com or call 212-452-2400. You may also use the following button to schedule an appointment online. We look forward to hearing from you. Thank you!

Signature Procedure | Facelift, Necklift, and Eyelid Surgery

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The Power of Subtlety: Why Combining Facelift, Necklift, and Eyelid Surgery Can Be the Smartest Move

When it comes to facial rejuvenation, the best results often come not from a single dramatic procedure, but from a series of subtle, strategic ones. Think of your face like a symphony — each section contributes to the harmony of the whole. If one instrument is tuned but the others aren’t, the imbalance is obvious. That’s where the idea of “global optimization” comes in.

Instead of focusing on just one area — like the jawline or the eyes — combining a facelift, necklift, and eyelid surgery allows for a more holistic, natural-looking enhancement. When done with a light touch, this trio can leave you looking refreshed and well-rested — not “done.”

Facelift: Reframing the Lower Face

A modern facelift doesn’t pull the skin tight like the procedures of the past. Instead, it repositions deeper tissues to restore the natural contours of the mid-to-lower face — softening jowls, lifting the cheeks, and refining the jawline. It’s not about looking different. It’s about looking like yourself, ten years ago.

Necklift: The Understated Game-Changer

The neck is one of the biggest giveaways of age. Even a flawless face can look discordant if it sits above a sagging or banded neck. A necklift smooths the area under the chin, redefines the neckline, and creates continuity between the face and body. When paired with a facelift, the result feels seamless.

Eyelid Surgery: Brightening the First Impression

The eyes are often the first thing people notice — and the first area to show fatigue or age. Upper eyelid surgery removes excess skin that can make eyes look heavy, while lower eyelid surgery can reduce puffiness and smooth under-eye shadows. The key here is restraint: just enough correction to open up the expression without changing its character.

Why Simultaneous Surgery Works

Here’s where the magic happens. By doing all three procedures together — facelift, necklift, and eyelid surgery — you give your surgeon the ability to balance every element in one unified plan. The result? A refreshed appearance that’s consistent from forehead to collarbone.

There’s also a practical benefit: undergoing these procedures at once typically means one round of anesthesia, one recovery period, and often, better cost-efficiency. Most importantly, it avoids the “piecemeal” look that can occur when features are treated in isolation, at different times or by different hands.

Subtlety Is the Strategy

The goal isn’t to erase every line or freeze every expression. The best results whisper, not shout. When approached with finesse, this trio of procedures can help you look like the best version of yourself — not a different person entirely.

Whether you’re considering surgery soon or just starting to explore your options, remember: the face works as a system. And treating it that way — with harmony in mind — often leads to the most beautiful outcomes.

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Appointment Inquiries

For inquiries and appointments, please email appointments at appointments@laradevganmd.com or call 212-452-2400. You may also use the following button to schedule an appointment online. We look forward to hearing from you. Thank you!

Forbes: Saturation In The Beauty Industry And The Imperative Of Excellence

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Saturation In The Beauty Industry And The Imperative Of Excellence

The modern beauty and medical aesthetics industries are undergoing an unprecedented boom with the rise of injectables and plastic surgery, as well as the hyperproliferation of skincare products. However, industry saturation presents a paradox: While demand fuels innovation, it also increases the prevalence of subpar results, complications and ineffective products.

In aesthetic medicine, this can lead to unnatural results and surgical complications stemming from inexperienced providers or an overreliance on quick-fix treatments. In skincare, the volume of products flooding the market can lead to confusion, with formulas offering more marketing hype than clinically proven benefits.

In times like these, excellence is the only answer for businesses. Here are five key strategies to help you navigate industry saturation while maintaining the highest standards:

1. Prioritize Mastery Over Expansion

When a market becomes overcrowded, the instinct may be to scale rapidly or diversify offerings. However, in my experience, depth of expertise always outperforms breadth of services. In plastic surgery, this means refining techniques, advancing skill sets and committing to precision. In skincare, it means formulating only clinically effective products instead of launching dozens of trend-driven options.

2. Use Data to Help Drive Decision-Making

Amid industry noise, science and results must lead. In aesthetic medicine, the best practitioners meticulously document outcomes, track complication rates and follow evidence-based protocols. In skincare, rigorous testing and third-party validation separate effective formulations from empty promises. The professionals and brands that endure are those who let the numbers speak for themselves.

3. Focus on Patient and Consumer Education

In a saturated market, misinformation thrives. The responsibility of industry leaders is to educate, whether it’s guiding patients toward natural, safe and elegant aesthetic outcomes or helping consumers decipher which skincare ingredients genuinely work. Thought leadership—through publishing, speaking and ethical marketing—can help you build credibility while also elevating industry standards.

4. Highlight Long-Term Outcomes Over Short-Term Trends

Trends fade, but results last. I believe the rise of extreme facial contouring, excessive filler use and overcorrected surgical results is a reflection of industry saturation meeting social media-fueled aesthetic fads. However, the hallmark of true excellence is creating results that age gracefully and endure. Similarly, in skincare, the best formulations are those that provide long-term skin health benefits, not just immediate sensory appeal.

5. Never Compromise on Excellence

In a world where more choices do not always mean better results, the true differentiator is, and always will be, excellence. In medicine, this means never cutting corners in patient care, never choosing speed over safety and never following a trend at the expense of long-term outcomes. In business, it means standing firm on quality, ethics and scientific rigor, even when the market is pushing for volume and virality. The best in any field are those who never let industry saturation dilute their standards.

As more providers and brands enter the space, those who prioritize integrity and patient-centric outcomes will establish themselves as leaders. Patients and consumers are becoming more discerning, gravitating toward those who deliver consistently superior results. The ultimate takeaway? Markets will fluctuate, trends will come and go, but excellence will always win.

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Marie Claire: Platinum Lip Plump Named the Best Overall Lip Plumper

BEST OVERALL: Dr. Lara Devgan Scientific Beauty

This plumper does it all: It gives a great shine and keeps your lips soft and smooth directly after application and over time. You’re going to feel it working its magic for the first few minutes, but the tickle will subside fairly quickly.

A LIp Plumping OVerview

In my opinion, lip plumpers get a bad rap. Rewind a decade or so and some of the volume-boosting products would tingle a bit too much. Like, they kind of, sort of hurt. But thanks to a few ingredient substitutions (goodbye mint, hello hyaluronic acid), elegant, new formulas have resulted in a new wave of the best lip plumpers—and it’s time they landed on your radar. These lip plumpers tickle as opposed to tingle, provide high shine more times than not, and improve lip volume from the inside out thanks to nourishing and hydrating ingredients. 

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Signature Procedure | Finesse Eyelid Surgery: Upper & Lower Eyelid Blepharoplasty

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Finesse Eyelid Surgery: Upper & Lower Eyelid Blepharoplasty

Eyelid surgery, also known as blepharoplasty, is one of the most refined and impactful cosmetic procedures available today. Whether it's a subtle lift of the upper lids or a gentle smoothing of the lower ones, finesse eyelid surgery can rejuvenate the face and restore a refreshed, youthful appearance without dramatically changing your natural look.

What Is Finesse Eyelid Surgery?

Finesse eyelid surgery refers to a meticulous, detail-oriented approach to blepharoplasty that focuses on precision and minimal disruption. Rather than creating a dramatically altered look, the goal is to enhance what’s already there—removing excess skin, smoothing puffiness, and restoring a natural, alert appearance.

Upper Eyelid Blepharoplasty

As we age, the skin on the upper eyelids can begin to droop or sag, creating a tired or heavy appearance. In some cases, excess skin can even interfere with vision. Upper eyelid blepharoplasty involves removing this excess tissue and sometimes a small amount of fat to create a more open, youthful look. The incision is typically made in the natural crease of the eyelid, which allows for discreet healing and minimal visible scarring.

Lower Eyelid Blepharoplasty

The lower lids often show age through puffiness, under-eye bags, or sagging skin. Finesse lower eyelid blepharoplasty targets these concerns with tailored techniques. Surgeons may remove or reposition fat, tighten the skin, or both—depending on the patient’s anatomy and goals. The incision is usually hidden just below the lash line or inside the eyelid (transconjunctival approach), ensuring a natural result with minimal scarring.

Who Is a Good Candidate?

Ideal candidates for upper or lower eyelid surgery are healthy adults who experience puffiness, drooping, or tired-looking eyes and want to enhance their appearance subtly. It’s especially effective for people whose facial aging affects their eyelids more noticeably than other areas. Non-smokers with realistic expectations and good skin elasticity tend to see the best results.

Recovery and Results

Recovery from eyelid surgery is typically smooth and relatively quick. Most patients experience mild swelling or bruising for the first 7–10 days. Stitches are usually removed within a week, and makeup can be resumed shortly after. Within a few weeks, most of the visible signs of surgery fade, leaving behind brighter, more youthful eyes that still look like you—just more rested and refreshed.

The Takeaway

Finesse eyelid surgery is not about dramatic transformation—it’s about thoughtful enhancement. Whether it’s upper, lower, or both lids, a skilled surgeon can rejuvenate your appearance with a light touch that brings out your best features without shouting "surgery." It’s a small change that can make a big difference in how you look and feel.

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Appointment Inquiries

For inquiries and appointments, please email appointments at appointments@laradevganmd.com or call 212-452-2400. You may also use the following button to schedule an appointment online. We look forward to hearing from you. Thank you!

Scientific Beauty | 5 Questions about Facelifts

Dr. Lara Devgan answers 5 questions about facelifts in this TikTok!

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5 Questions about Facelifts:

1.) The common misconception that they have to look unnatural or overdone: They can be very discreet, elegant and understated.

2.) How long is the recovery time for a typical facelift? I usually tell my patients one to two weeks of social downtime, two weeks until you’re “restaurant ready,” and six weeks until you’re “red carpet ready.”

3.) Is it better to combine a facelift with other procedures or is it better to do it alone? You can kind of go either way. In my opinion, every area of the face bears on the adjacent and anatomic areas so a combination of procedures can be very beautiful and is generally the preference I have. However, this is also very patient-specific and should be discussed with your doctor.

4.) What procedures do you commonly do alongside a facelift? Eyelid surgery, upper and lower lip leproplasty, temporal brow lift, neck lift, lip lift, buccal fat pad excision, and a very common one is autologous fat grafting.

5.) What’s the most common age for a facelift? It’s more about your anatomy than age. But I’ve done facelifts on patients ranging from their 30s to their 80s. I would say the 40s and 50s are the most common range.

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Appointment Inquiries

For inquiries and appointments, please email appointments at appointments@laradevganmd.com or call 212-452-2400. You may also use the following button to schedule an appointment online. We look forward to hearing from you. Thank you!

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